We were packed and ready when Ang Nuru arrived with the minibus around 6:50am and the trip to the domestic airport was quick and easy in the early morning. Ang Nuru smoothed the way for us through the expected chaos at the airport which made life much easier for us. Our Yeti Airlines flight scheduled for 8:00am eventually took off at around 8:50am on a Shangri La Airlines plane. In the three seats-per-row passenger accommodation Dominic and I were just to the right of the narrow aisle in the row immediately behind the cockpit. This gave me an overview of everything that the pilot and co-pilot did as well as an almost unrestricted view through the windscreen. The 180 km flight takes just under an hour and along the way there were spectacular views through the side windows and also, at times through the windscreen.
View through the windscreen - Kathmandu to LuklaOn arrival in Lukla we were quickly off the aircraft after the short uphill landing. Ang Nuru quickly had our other guide, Passang, and porters Chirring and Block (probably a nickname) organised and carrying our baggage to the restaurant of the nearby Shangri La Hotel. Since we'd had such an early start we didn't have time for breakfast in Kathmandu so made up for it here with black tea, chappati and jam or honey (I used Dominic's emergency jar of Vegemite!). While we had breakfast Chirring and Block organised their loads which are typically carried with a tumpline over the head rather than with shoulder straps.
At around 10:00am we eventually got going on the first leg of the trek. All the months and weeks of planning had got us this far. Now it was up to our bodies to do the rest.
The first leg of the trek is generally to Phakding (sometimes spelled Phakdingma) which is actually about 300 metres lower than Lukla which seems a bit strange - losing elevation on a trek which is going to go up quite high. The track winds through the river valley through numerous small villages and over the occasional swing bridge. At least most of these are now constructed of modern robust materials so the only major hazard is the possibility of yaks coming the other way.
At around 10:00am we eventually got going on the first leg of the trek. All the months and weeks of planning had got us this far. Now it was up to our bodies to do the rest.
The first leg of the trek is generally to Phakding (sometimes spelled Phakdingma) which is actually about 300 metres lower than Lukla which seems a bit strange - losing elevation on a trek which is going to go up quite high. The track winds through the river valley through numerous small villages and over the occasional swing bridge. At least most of these are now constructed of modern robust materials so the only major hazard is the possibility of yaks coming the other way.
Shirley and Barry behind a few well laden porters on the first swing bridge.On this stretch, from Lukla to Phakding we encountered many other trekking groups along with their porters and guides. There were also yak trains laden with baggage or goods going in both directions.
Passang's house also lies along this track and we stopped there for a very welcome hot lemon drink before continuing. Unfortunately Dominic was feeling a little bilious so left the contents of his stomach beside the track before we carried. It was probably exacerbated by the exertion on such a warm day too.
A little further on and toward the middle of the day we stopped in Ghat for lunch at Ang Nuru's aunties Guest House. Her potato soup for 80/= Rs was particularly good. After lunch it was another 40 minutes or so to Phakding where we crossed another swing bridge across the Dudh Khola (Dudh means river) to the Phakding Star Guest House where our baggage had already been taken to our rooms waiting for us. The rooms were clean and quite spacious with two single beds so we expected to get a better sleep there than in Kathmandu.
A cold shower enabled me to clean up to treat some chafing in tender spots with the "can't be too highly recommended" Lucas Paw-paw Ointment. We also established a pattern for the rest of the trek - walk, get to the overnight stop, rest for a while before dinner, then an early dinner generally around 6:30PM followed by an early night to read and/or listen to MP3 player until sleep came.
We now started monitoring pulse and O2 saturation levels to get some idea of acclimatisation to the altitude. So at the end of this first day, my pulse was 62bpm and O2 was 90%. Another check in the morning would reveal how well we recovered overnight. The general rule being - if you are worse in the morning do not go up any higher that day.
I was also wearing my Pedometer during the day and for this first leg the number of steps was 12485 - about 9.3 km.
Passang's house also lies along this track and we stopped there for a very welcome hot lemon drink before continuing. Unfortunately Dominic was feeling a little bilious so left the contents of his stomach beside the track before we carried. It was probably exacerbated by the exertion on such a warm day too.
A little further on and toward the middle of the day we stopped in Ghat for lunch at Ang Nuru's aunties Guest House. Her potato soup for 80/= Rs was particularly good. After lunch it was another 40 minutes or so to Phakding where we crossed another swing bridge across the Dudh Khola (Dudh means river) to the Phakding Star Guest House where our baggage had already been taken to our rooms waiting for us. The rooms were clean and quite spacious with two single beds so we expected to get a better sleep there than in Kathmandu.
A cold shower enabled me to clean up to treat some chafing in tender spots with the "can't be too highly recommended" Lucas Paw-paw Ointment. We also established a pattern for the rest of the trek - walk, get to the overnight stop, rest for a while before dinner, then an early dinner generally around 6:30PM followed by an early night to read and/or listen to MP3 player until sleep came.
We now started monitoring pulse and O2 saturation levels to get some idea of acclimatisation to the altitude. So at the end of this first day, my pulse was 62bpm and O2 was 90%. Another check in the morning would reveal how well we recovered overnight. The general rule being - if you are worse in the morning do not go up any higher that day.
I was also wearing my Pedometer during the day and for this first leg the number of steps was 12485 - about 9.3 km.
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