Himalayan Odyssey(14)

Saturday October 13th, 2007

It was very cold overnight and, for the first time on the trip, I slept in longjohns and socks. We start our walk on the leg to Namche Bazaar at around 8:00am. Shortly after beginning the long descent to the river (Dudh Koshi) I spot a group of pheasant-like birds scurrying through the underrush below us. Ang Nuru tells us that they are 'Monal' - indeed a kind of pheasant - and we are very priveleged to actually see them. The Himalayan Monal is the national bird of Nepal.

Still near the top of the track we can see Khumjung directly opposite us at about the same altitude.

Khumjung seen from the descent from Tenboche

Later on, looking back up the river valley, we can see the track which goes up to Phortse to the west of Tengboche.

The track to Phortse wriggling up the west side of the valley

After about an hour we reach the river crossing and then another long uphill slog to Sanasa. This stretch is quite strenuous and I have a few Angina attacks, using my Nitrolingual spray twice to ease the symtoms. At Sanasa we have a very welcome break for lunch which includes one of our favourite drinks - hot lemon. While we are there Ang Nuru runs into an English guy, Mike, who has apparently acted as his mentor/counsellor through the period after his (Ang Nuru's) father's death.

The track from Sanasa is almost level with mild undulations before reaching Namche. At one point the track has been built up across a very steep drop which goes all the way down the river 300 metres below. A false step here would be very nasty!

Also on this stretch we see some more of the pheasant-like birds - this time in the open. When flying they show a brilliant red tail display. Ang Nuru tells us these are Dhanphe which turns out to be just another name for the Himalayan Monal (Impeyan Pheasant).

The rest of the walk is uneventful and the view of Namche from the top of the hill is a very welcome sight - it really is a remarkable location for a settlement.

Namche Bazaar from the Sanasa track.

We arrive at Hotel Norling in Namche about five and a half hours after leaving Tengboche. This time we are given a room on the first floor right over the 'Dinning' room.

Overall today the walking has been cool but strenuous and we are ready to zonk out and relax at the end.

The pedometer registers 10200 paces, O2 is at 84% and pulse is good at 56.