St Petersburg Impressions

After being apprehensive about going to Russia, due mainly to media hype about post-Soviet conditions as well as a wondering how much of the authoritarianism is still in place, I was favourably impressed with St Petersburg. It was probably the worst time of year to visit - missing both the warmth of Summer and the softening effects of a white-blanketed Winter, but even in the Autumn murk it is a beautiful city. It sort of had the feel, to me at least, that I imagine 19th-century or early 20th-century Paris would have had. Full of great buildings and bustling with people and traffic but with an air of genteel decay. Or rather of a never-ending effort to keep the buildings in good condition - Nevsky Pr in Autumn is rather dirty, and somewhat polluted by vehicle exhaust fumes, but alive with people and vehicles. It also was a reminder of past greatness - both the royal kind, as well as commercial greatness. For instance the facade of the Singer Building, which stands on the corner of Nevsky Pr and Griboedova Canal, speaks of a time when the city's prospects were high and business was booming, before the decline of the Soviet years.It reminded me somewhat of the facade of the Selfridges department store on London's Oxford St.

Possibly many of the people were better off overall under communism after the revolution than under Tsarist rule, although stories of people queueing for hours to buy staple supplies make this seem unlikely. There is little doubt, however, that Russia's economy has boomed since the breakup of the USSR and the shops are probably as good as you would find in any of the major world cities. Apparently older people have found it harder to adjust to the changes since Communism than the younger generations who, like young people everywhere, relish changes.

The people that we met were friendly and never 'in your face'. Around the churches there are the inevitable souvenir stalls, salesmen of Caviar of dubious provenance, and beggars but thats where you expect to find them. You are not, generally, accosted on the street to take this tour or buy this souvenir. Our hosts were gracious and looked after us very well. It would be interesting to visit St Petersburg again with more time available to really get to know what it is like to actually live there - an experience you can never get as a tourist who is just there for a few days trying to cram as much in as possible.

Yes, I'll go back if I get the chance, long-haul flights and all.